Waking up an hour earlier than usual, I carefully pulled back the curtains to catch a glimpse of the sunrise. Only to be greeted by a thick curtain of fog. The third instance this week. I stifled a yawn and proceeded to the kitchen. Putting the water to boil, I checked on the batter that had been set out on the kitchen counter to ferment overnight. The dal for making the 'Badi' was soaked even as the tea leaves were brewing. Grabbing a cup of tea I mentally ticked off the tasks one by one. It promised to be one tough day but I was ready to take on the world. Powered by the brew. And perhaps bolstered by nostalgia.
Saturday, November 27, 2021
Badi Bahaghara : A unique Prathamastami ritual from Odisha
Thursday, November 25, 2021
Khesari Dal : A victim of propaganda ?
I first read about Khesari dal in the textbooks in school. It was the villain who seduced the poor into consuming it in large amounts and then promptly turned them into miserable cripples. Sadly, I believed every word of it. Such was my faith in the written word. But then everything comes with an expiry date. Or at least an upgrade patch. Much needed to fill those gaps in the software or in the context of real life, the half-baked textbook knowledge religiously fed to unassuming schoolkids.
The Khesari dal's notoriety as a 'paralysis inducing' ingredient is only second to its disrepute as a cheap adulterant used to bulk up more expensive pulses. And it has actually been found to have been added to everything from toor dal to 'besan' to even the 'sattu'. But then not every part of the world eyes it with suspicion or explicitly bans its cultivation and sale. Lathyrus Sativus is an important crop in India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Nepal, and Ethiopia for reasons that range from meeting the protein requirement of the poorer sections of society to its ability to fix nitrogen in the soil and also its usage as animal fodder. Though it was banned for sale in India in the year 1961, states like Bengal, parts of Odisha, Bihar, Jharkhand, and Chhattisgarh have continued to use this dal for human consumption. And importantly, Maharashtra has overturned the ban on the cultivation and sale of this dal based on the research findings of a Nagpur-based nutrition scientist Shantilal Kothari. His work makes for an engaging though lengthy read.
While reading up on Khesari dal, I stumbled upon the fact that it had been banned first in 1907 by the Maharaja of Rewa(Madhya Pradesh) after a severe drought drove . While one cannot deny the presence of the neurotoxin ODAP in Khesari dal, it is shown to have an adverse effect only when consumed in excess amounts, almost skewing the normal carb to protein ratio of a regular Indian meal . Medical texts state the 400 g of Lathyrus consumed daily over a period of 3 months or more may increase the risk of Lathyrism. While such instances have occurred during periods of drought or crop failure, the resilient character of this legume makes it an asset during such periods. It can grow in almost any kind of soil and provides a good amount of protein even when consumed in moderation. Soaking the dal in hot water for 40 mins to an hour and washing it thoroughly multiple times is supposed to cuts down most of the neurotoxins. Even soaking in normal water cuts down the neurotoxins by half. (Haileyesus Getahun 1, Fernand Lambein, Michel Vanhoorne, Patrick Van der Stuyft) . On the other hand, consuming sufficient cereals with the dal to balance the essential sulphur aminoacids can help prevent Lathyrism.(Fernand Lambein, Yu-Haey Kuo)
As per Ayurveda, 'Khesari dal' is 'cold and heavy' with laxative properties and hence should be consumed accordingly. For example, if one visualizes a proper Indian meal, a decent chunk of it is the carbohydrates that provide the most calories. Then comes a bowl of dal, one or two servings of vegetables which change according to the season, maybe a chutney or a pickle, even papad or badi. All of it together makes the meal complete. There is no concept of 'Ati' or excess. A fact reiterated by some of the families who cultivate this dal in Odisha. All of them use it occasionally and in small amounts. Mostly for making a snack called 'piaji' (not to be confused with the onion extravaganza by the same name) and then very rarely for a regular dal to be eaten with rice. Research literature points to the usage of the green pods as a snack very much like the Bengal gram.
While there is ongoing research to develop newer cultivars with lower ODAP levels, one can still consume them in smaller amounts as the benefits outweigh the drawbacks and it is also easier on the pocket. It is known to strengthen the bones, balance Pitta-Kapha dosha, reduce inflammation, enhance potency, and also stimulate the appetite. In the coastal parts of Odisha, especially in Cuttack and nearby areas, the 'Piaji' or fried fritters are almost always made with Khesari dal.
A side by side comparison of Tuvar(tur)side-by-side and Khesari dal to help in identifying the latter. While Tuv has a rounded shape, the latter has a rather irregular shape and yellowish-orange color.
Sharing a quick recipe for the 'Piaji' or 'Dal vada' I made with it -
Khesari Dal Piaji/ Vada
Ingredients -
1/2 cup Khesari dal
1 small onion (finely chopped)
1/2 inch ginger (crushed)
1-2 green chili(crushed)
1/2 cup chopped greens (coriander/tender mustard greens/moringa/radish greens)
salt to taste
200 ml oil for frying
Preparation - Wash and soak the dal for 1-2 hours. Drain off all water.
Transfer to a chutney jar and give a quick pulse. Add the rest of the ingredients except oil and give another pulse. The paste should be a little finer than the coarse texture we prefer for Channa dal when making dal vada.
Heat the oil. Don't get it smoking though. Add small dollops of the paste. Do not crowd the frying vessel at any time and keep the oil at a constant temperature.
Turn it a few times and remove it when it starts to acquire a light brown color.
Serve immediately.
The remaining 'piaji' can be refrigerated and added to a curry.
Alternatively, one can also make a thin and flavorful dal with it.
Sunday, November 21, 2021
Janta Ruti : Just do'ugh' it !!
Sometime back in 2013 when I was experimenting with foods meant for my ever-hungry toddler, I discovered the 'Janta ruti', a kind of bread popular in Odisha. It was tasty, easy enough to chew, and light on the stomach too. Plus it made a perfect pair with the boiled veggies (read 'Santula' minus the 'chunka' or tempering). It became a part of our menu and stayed that way. And incredibly, it's most salient feature remained overlooked.
But everything changed a few months back when I was reading up on research papers about gluten. Or rather how to minimize the formation of this unavoidable protein that has been haunting quite a few people. Honestly, going the sourdough route or switching to 'Gluten free' flour isn't an option for everyone. Or even switching to 'ghar ke chakki ka atta' or 'home processed flour' if I have to put it in the Indian context.
But why this growing dissent with 'gluten' which has always been present in wheat? Gluten intolerance may also have become fairly common because of changes in the way wheat is processed. Earlier, wheat was harvested, shade dried, washed down, and sun-dried before making it to the local chakki where it was ground and distributed. But increased demand has led to manufacturers bypassing all the steps between threshing and processing. Most of the packaged wheat is not properly shade dried and sun-dried - the two processes that broke down gluten (or rather glutenin as gluten comes into the picture only when after the flour is hydrated ) into smaller particles.
Preferences also play a role here. Demand for white-looking bread or 'roti' has led to the market being flooded with certain varieties like durum which have higher gluten content in comparison to varieties like 'Emmer' or 'Kaphali' which have lower gluten but are much darker in color. In spite of this selective breeding, the gluten content has remained constant over the last 120 years, although the composition of the gluten has changed slightly. While the proportion of Gliadin fell by around 18 percent, the proportion of Glutenin rose by around 25 percent.
While it is tough to dismiss the external factors, the formation of gluten has a lot to do with how the dough is manipulated. Everything from the amount (and temperature) of water added to the dough, to the kneading technique (damn!! there are so many of them) and duration of kneading to the usage of shortening agents( term used for fats that coat the gluten components and prevent them from forming lengthy chains resulting in a flaky crumbly texture) plays a definite role.
Somewhere in the middle of processing it all, it struck me. I was seeing the 'Janta ruti' through the lens of my newly acquired understanding. It ticked all the boxes. Temperature, hydration, and fat. The boiling water denatures the wheat proteins, limiting the formation of gluten. This makes the dough soft but not stretchy(read 'hard to tear'). Second, the hot water gelatinizes the starch allowing it to absorb more water. This makes the dough smooth and supple and a lot easier to work with. As a bonus, it stays soft long after it has cooled down. The fat, though in a limited amount, prevents the linkage of gluten strands and ensures that the dough doesn't turn sticky. Hence one ends up with a dough that is easy to work with and the end product (roti/paratha) stays soft and fresh for a longer duration. Best part? It is that it is just so much easier on the digestive system (and the jaws too).
There are two versions made in most Odia homes, a sweeter one with fennel and a little khand/sugar and a savory one with carom(ajwain) seeds. The preparation process and the rest of the ingredients remain the same. A few people also add a little milk while preparing the dough for the sweeter version.
Sometimes the dough is also deep-fried instead of being cooked on a tawa or griddle. These pooris, also called 'khali poori', are extremely delicious but soak up a lot of oil. They are eaten during fasting.
Check the recipe for the Janta Ruti (sweet version) - HERE
Friday, November 19, 2021
Dahi Chenna : The lesser known Chenna from Odisha
Monday, November 15, 2021
Decoding the Habisa Dalma
Thursday, November 11, 2021
The Ancient Practice of Cooking In Leaves : GajaPimpali Enduri
What does Chenna Poda, Poda Pitha and Sikar Purga have in common? Apart from being capable of rigging one's salivary gland at a mere mention, these dishes bear the stamp of the ancient practice of cooking in leaves. Each of these is traditionally made by wrapping the ingredients in Shorea Robusta or Sal leaves. Apart from the sal, other leaves that are widely used in Odia cooking are the leaves of the turmeric plant which are used for making the steamed delicacy called 'Enduri pitha'.
But turmeric leaves are not the only ones used to make the Enduri pitha. Take a closer look at the last image in this post and marvel at the thick ovate leaves. And those prominent veins running along the length of the leaves. This Gajapimpali enduri is a beautiful example of Odisha's hitherto underexplored micro cuisines, a testimony of the diversity that exist within the state.
The Winter Vegetables of Odisha : A Recce of the local Haat
I walked into the crowds. The hiatus had been longer than anticipated. The feeling of venturing into alien territory gripped me at first. I stumbled blindly for the first few meters before I started picking out the shapes. Just as the eyes get accustomed to the darkness when one enters a dark room. I found myself seeking out familiar faces in the crowd. Perhaps it mirrored my own need to be recognized. By the old lady who stocked my favorite greens and tried to offload her entire stash on me. Or the man who was sometimes accompanied by his son who happened to be a little older than my own. I failed to spot either of them. Did she find someone as gullible as me ? How is the boy coping up with the online classes ? Questions flocked to me. The answers were nowhere in sight.
Wednesday, October 25, 2017
Kashayam ( Cold and cough Remedy )
Haldi wala doodh or turmeric milk. Kadha. Kashayam. Basil and Honey or 'Tulsi-Mahu' as we call it in Odia . Or even the yummy 'Milagu rasam'. I bet every corner of the country has have something unique to offer for combating the side-effects of the much romanticized winters. And interestingly, every grandma has put her own spin to this traditional remedy. Maybe she learnt it from her grandmother/mother or even chanced upon it quite accidentally during a trial. But somehow she makes sure that we follow it to the T. And almost by magic, each recipe has proved beneficial in my experience.
This recipe for example fell into my hands quite by accident. I had gone to meet my neighbor in the afternoon a few days before Diwali. A bad cold ensured that I was coughing in the middle of every sentence that I managed to utter. And that is when aunty handed me a glass of a warm brown liquid that I could not smell. Thanks to a blocked sinus. It had a sharp smell but I managed to drink it. Within 10 mins, I could feel it working. She asked me to come back after another 3-4 hours for another dose. By night, I was feeling so much better. And that is when I knew that I had to have this recipe.
Read on for the details -
Preparation Time - 15 mins
Ingredients -
- 2-3 betel leaves
- 5-6 tulsi leaves
- 10-12 peppercorns
- 10-12 coriander seeds
- 2 green cardamom
- 1 inch ginger
- 4 1/2 glasses of water
Preparation - Take all the ingredients except the betel leaves and crush them coarsely.
Take the water in a saucepan and put it on the flame. Add the crushed ingredients .
Tear the betel leaves and add to the water. Let it boil for 15 mins.
Take off from the flame and let the temperature come down to tepid.
Drink 1-2 glasses. And keep the remaining covered .
Warm slightly before you drink and use on the same day.
Friday, October 20, 2017
Sugarfree Fig and Brown Rice Pudding / Anjeer Kheer [ Collab post with ADollopOfThat ]
At the moment every little cell in by body is clamoring for things to calm down. It's almost like I need the break to recharge my batteries. A little respite before facing the next storm. Unfortunately, events seem to suggest otherwise. And I need to get battle-ready yet again even though I am feeling worn out.
So, for now I am doing everything possible to nourish by body and spirit. The healthy lifestyle that I have embarked on has definitely improved things to a large extent. But there are certain health issues that every woman in her thirties must deal with. And that calls for further refinement in the dietary habits. Plus including more of weight training in the fitness routine as those bones start losing more calcium than ever before.
This simple rice pudding is made of everything nice ( read calcium ) . But minus the sugar and spice !!
Read on for the recipe -
Preparation Time - 3 hours
Ingredients -
- 1 1/2 liters skimmed milk
- 3/4 cup Brown Basmati rice
- 3 cups chopped fresh figs / anjeer
- 2-3 tsp honey ( or add a little more if you prefer it sweeter )
- 10-12 cashews
- 3-4 tsp raisins
Preparation - Wash and soak the brown rice for 3-4 hours.
Cooking - Take the milk in a heavy bottomed pan and add the drained rice to it.
Bring to a boil on a medium flame. Add the cashews and raisins. Then reduce the flame and let it simmer for 2-3 hours.
Keep stirring at regular intervals.
The kheer will turn thick thick and creamy .
Finally add the chopped fresh figs and honey. Simmer for another 5 mins.
Remove from the flame and let it stand till it comes down to room temperature.
Serve immediately or chill for 20-30 mins before serving.
And don't forget to check out the super delicious and healthy 'Suji phirni with Apple and Cinnamon' by Parinaaz !!
Suji Phirni with Apple and Cinnamon
Thursday, October 19, 2017
Chocolate Chili Anar ( Gluten Free Recipe )
Nooooo. The air pollution has already hot stratospheric levels and is choking the life out of our poor lungs.
#BeAPataka ???
Easier said than done. Being the mommy of a ever curious five year old, I need to ensure anything and everything inflammatory is kept out of sight and hearing. Pataka or otherwise......
#EatAPataka ??
Aah ....now we are talking sense. Like really !! And chilli flavored treats are just the thing that I have in mind.
For the uninformed, Capsaicin in chillis not only speeds up the metabolism but also ensures that a smaller portion makes us feel full. Even from my experience, the latter holds good especially when it comes to desserts. Doesn't that sound like a blessing in disguise ?But the real reason I love a hint of chilli in my dessert is that it kind of intensifies the flavor.
The Chocolate Chilli Anar is a wonderful twist to our very own "Gujjiya" or "Karanji", which is must have Diwali delight. The all purpose flour is swapped with a gluten free flour and the coconut stuffing is infused with a heady mix of dark chocolate and bhut jolokia chili. Moreover, it is baked instead of being dunked in hot oil which ensures that we stick to the 'healthy snacks' resolution. The conical 'anar' shape is just perfect for the ongoing Diwali festivities.
Thank you Plattershare for this wonderful opportunity !!
Read on for the recipe -
Preparation Time - 40-45 mins
Ingredients -
For the outer layer -
- 1 1/2 cup Jiwa Gluten Free flour
- 2 tsp ghee
- 1/6 tsp salt or as per taste
- water for kneading into a tight dough
For the stuffing -
- 1 freshly grated coconut
- 1/2 cup dark chocolate chips
- 1 dried Bhut Jolokia chilli
- 1 tsp ghee
- 2 pinch salt
- 2 tsp brown sugar
Preparation -
For making the stuffing -
Pour the ghee a saucepan.
Add the bhut jolokia to the ghee and wait till the ghee is sufficiently hot. Do not let it smoke else the chili's heat will cause burning sensation in eyes, nose and throat.
Add the coconut and keep stirring lightly till it turns light brown.
Remove the chili and add the choco chips to the pan. Keep the flame to a minimum.
Once the chocolate has melted, add brown sugar and salt. Mix everything together.
Remove from flame and keep aside till bearable to touch.
Pinch out small portions of the stuffing and shape into conical mounds.
For the outer layer -
Take the flour, ghee and salt in a mixing bowl. Rub everything together till it is mixed evenly.
Add water little by little and make a tight dough. Let it rest for 30 mins.
Take small portions of the dough and roll it out . Cut out ribbons with the help of a knife.
Make small round discs with the remaining dough.
Final assembly -
Place a mound of the stuffing on each disc. Take the ribbons and wrap it around the mound to give it the look of an anar.
Repeat the process for making more such 'anar's.
Baking - Preheat the oven to 180 degrees.
Place the 'anar's on a baking tray and pop it into the oven.
Let them bake for 12-14 mins or till done.
Remove from the oven and let them cool down.
Serve immediately or store in an airtight container.
Tuesday, October 17, 2017
Teen Patti Crackers With A Bhut Jolokia Dip
I had a few recipes saved in the drafts when the Jiwa Gluten Free flour from Plattershare arrived in the courier. Made from brown rice flour and multiple grains, it has a nice flavor and texture that works well for most of my recipes. Hence, all my healthy (read 'baked') snacks now have a nice gluten-free twist to them .
This is the first among the snacks I have created for Diwali. Now Diwali happens to be synonymous with a game of Teen Patti ! These healthy gluten free crackers with a beautiful card suit symbol pricked out in each of them are just apt for the occasion. Pair it with a tantalizingly hot Bhut jolokia dipping sauce with figs and caramelized onions and you have just ensured an evening to remember !
Read on for the recipe -
Preparation Time - 45 mins
Ingredients -
For the crackers -
- 1 cup Jiwa Gluten Free flour
- 3 tsp melted butter
- 1/4 tsp salt ( i prefer using even less )
- 2 tsp finely chopped garlic chives
- Warm water for kneading
- Extra butter for brushing the crackers
For the Bhut Jolokia Bhut -
- 1/2 of a dried Bhut jolokia chili
- 5-6 ripe figs
- 1 large red onion
- 3-4 tsp Balsamic vinegar
- 3-4 tsp brown sugar
- 2 tsp olive oil
- salt to taste
For making the chunky dipping sauce - place the dried bhut jolokia chili in a cup and cover with hot water. Let it stand for 20 mins.
Wear gloves and chop the chilli into very fine bits for using in our recipe. Wash gloves, knives, chopping board and even the hands.
Heat 2 tsp olive oil in a saucepan.
Cut the onion into thin long pieces. Add to the olive oil and saute on a low temperature till it starts turning golden.
Now add the bhut jolokia chili to the onions and keep sauteing till onion gets completely caramelized. Switch on the exhaust or keep the windows open to avoid the strong fumes.
Chop up the figs and add to the caramelized onions. Add a little salt over them.
Once the figs soften, add the balsamic vinegar, brown sugar and 1/ cup hot water to the saucepan. Adjust the salt.
Let the ingredients simmer on a low flame till it thickens to the consistency of a jam.
Remove from flame and let it cool down .
Serve the crackers with the dipping sauce.
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