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Showing posts with label Odisha. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Odisha. Show all posts

Sunday, December 12, 2021

A Mid-monsoon Afternoon's dream : Tala pitha


 










As I sniffed the slightly squishy fruit I held in my hands,  I realized my childhood memories are replete with myriad scents. And Sugar palm or Toddy Palm is just one of them. It carries the scent of the monsoons. Not the much romanticized 'Petrichor' kind but one that develops as the rains progress from sudden showers to a steady drizzle that continues for days. The wetness of the lawn grass and the musty odor of clothes that had no chance to dry completely. Accompanied by the dampness of the walls and floors that would send me scurrying to the kitchen for warmth. And the nibbles that came with the turf. 

On one of those rainy days, a huge can would arrive from Jangra. I clearly remember being fascinated by the viscous saffron-hued contents. But it was the smell which has stayed with me till date. The golden-orange pulp of the Sugar Palm would fill the home with an ethereal fragrance. One moment I am here and in the next, I have been transported to a different realm. 

Jangra. The land of my forefathers. The ancestral home built by my grandfather's great grandfather. The numerous rooms,  courtyards, and doorways put together in a complex interconnected maze that often caused an 8-year-old to lose her way. Still, my curiosity got the better of me and I would sneak around exploring the fascinating labyrinth that stood almost at the edge of the river cliff. I am told most of it has been lost to the murky black waters of the mighty Brahmani river.

As the cousins and other ladies clambered down the treacherous slope with practiced ease, I would find myself sitting near the edge and counting the Sugar Palm trees growing near the river. They looked like sentinels, standing tall and formidable. It was much later that I realized they were real sentinels, acting as windbreakers and slowing down the soil erosion. They stood where they did for a good reason. Another reason why they could have been planted a little away from the inhabited village was the propensity of the fruits to fall down in quick succession once they ripened. 

I have often described the taste of the ripe fruit as a mix of mango and Jackfruit, with notes of banana and even Bael(Aegle marmelos) to anyone who asks me about it. But what do I know? No two people can smell things the same way!! All thanks to a complex receptor mechanism hard coded into our DNA. I learned it the hard way when the three of us couldn't agree upon certain foods and I always ended up on the losing team. Finally realized that the boy's receptors are mapped to his Dad's genes.

A few of the Sugar palm/ Talaw' delicacies made in Odisha -

Tala Bara
Tala Chakuli
Tala Kakara
Tala Poda Pitha
Tala Enduri
Tala Muan Pitha
Tala Chittau

Tala Kakara Recipe



















Ingredients

1 cup rice flour
1 cup sugar palm juice
1/2 cup jaggery
1 tsp fennel seeds
1/2 tsp salt 
Oil for deep frying ( cold-pressed mustard oil gives it an authentic taste )
1 tsp of ghee (optional)

Note :

The freshly extracted sugar palm juice needs to be strained, boiled for 10-15 mins and allowed to cool down in order to reduce the bitterness before using it in any kind of recipe. The consistency of this liquid will also vary with the amount of water used during the extraction. I had boiled and stored a big batch of the sugar palm extract which I have used in this recipe. If making it with freshly extracted juice, you will need to add a little more water, boil it for sometime and let it come down to room temperature before proceeding with this recipe. 

Preparation

Take the sugar palm juice in a thick-bottomed pan or wok. Bring it to boil on a low flame. Add the jaggery, fennel, and salt to the boiling juice. Once the jaggery melts, sift in the rice flour and keep stirring continuously to avoid the formation of lumps. Keep the flame low during all the time.

Remove from fire once the liquid is completely absorbed and the mixture resembles a loose dough. Do not overcook.

Allow to cool down a bit. Add a few drops of ghee. Knead the mixture into a smooth dough. The kneading should be done when the dough is still hot ( should have a tolerable temperature ).

Divide the warm dough into small balls (given quantity makes about 10 of them). Flatten them into small discs but do not make them very thin.

Cooking: Heat a wok. Add sufficient oil for frying. When the oil is sufficiently hot but not smoking, add the flattened balls. Reduce the flame a bit and fry them till they are golden brown in color.

Remove from the hot oil using a slotted spoon and allow them to cool down. Serve at room temperature. Tastes best the next day.

Wednesday, December 8, 2021

Manabasa Gurubar : Breaking caste barriers













The story behind Manabasa Gurubar. Taken from a 15th-century text, namely 'Laxmi Purana', that is read in almost every Odia home on Thursdays during the Hindu month of Margashira. 


A story that is helmed by the two protagonists, Maa Lakshmi and Sriya Chandaluni. One woman who supports another in the garb of a Goddess who blesses her disciplined and hardworking devotee irrespective of the latter's social standing. Cleanliness (or rather being industrious) is the key to appeasing the Goddess we are told.

Next is the character of Lord Balabhadra ( Jaganaath's elder brother). He epitomizes the high-handedness of a patriarchal society meting out unjust punishment to women for crossing their boundaries. In this case, by visiting the adobe of a 'Chandala' or social outcaste.

Lastly, the character of Lord Jagannath, Maa Lakshmi's husband who fails to stand up for her. He is torn between his elder brother and his wife. 

The transgression is followed by the banishment of the Goddess from her home. Then begins the 'Lakshmi-chawda' ( roughly translated into one abandoned by Lakshmi) phase of Princes who are turned into paupers. In a dramatic turn of events, the siblings are even denied food and water as the elements of nature conspire with the Goddess to bring the former to their senses. A beautifully narrated episode that establishes the Goddess's all-encompassing role as the center of the Universe.

The final redemption of the siblings is when they hungrily partake food at another 'Chandala' home (a test devised by Maa Lakshmi) thereby completing the cycle and vindicating the Goddess's stance. Food is positioned as the common denominator in this story. No one is above it. Hence to this date, people from all castes are allowed to partake in the 'Mahaprasad' from the same pot at the Jagannath Dham in Puri. The concept of 'Makara' or 'Sangata' seems to have evolved from the same philosophy. 

It's a story that seems to be quite ahead of its time. Sadly the Lakshmi Purana has been turned into just another 'holy book' that is read for the sake of it. While it does have its share of clichés and parts of it may not be relevant in today's date, it is a timeless tale. And the feminist and socialist tone is in sync with the period during which it was written. 

Jau / Jukha

'Jau' or rice from the season's harvest cooked with a trickle of milk, a dash of sugar and a single Annapurna(Pandan) leaf is one of the most important 'bhoga' or offerings made by my mother on Manabasa Gurubar. This is not 'kheer' or dessert but something which can be eaten as a main dish. 

Ingredients -

  • 1 cup new rice (aromatic is preferred)
  • 1/4 cup milk
  • 2-3 tsp sugar
  • a pinch of salt
  • 1-2 Pandan leaves
  • 5-6 cups water

Method - Bring the water to a boil in a thick-bottomed vessel. Wash the rice thoroughly and drain it. Add to the boiling water and stir it so that it doesn't catch at the bottom.

Add the salt. Lower the flame and let it cook till the rice is cooked. Add the Pandan leaves and cook for 15-20 mins longer so that the grains start to disintegrate. Top with more hot water if required.

Add 1/4 cup milk, 2-3 tsp sugar and a pinch of salt. Remove from flame and eat warm with a simple fry (or 'bhaja') or just by itself.

Various kinds of Pitha are also an important part of the Manabasa bhoga. Usually, a different kind is made every 'Manabasa pali' or Thursday. Kakara Pitha (image below) made with rice flour and stuffed with coconut jaggery is one of the mandatory pithas made in our home.




Saturday, November 27, 2021

Badi Bahaghara : A unique Prathamastami ritual from Odisha

Waking up an hour earlier than usual, I carefully pulled back the curtains to catch a glimpse of the sunrise. Only to be greeted by a thick curtain of fog. The third instance this week. I stifled a yawn and proceeded to the kitchen. Putting the water to boil, I checked on the batter that had been set out on the kitchen counter to ferment overnight. The dal for making the 'Badi' was soaked even as the tea leaves were brewing. Grabbing a cup of tea I mentally ticked off the tasks one by one. It promised to be one tough day but I was ready to take on the world. Powered by the brew. And perhaps bolstered by nostalgia. 














Prathamastami or the festival of the eldest child. A unique Odia festival that felicitates the eldest child regardless of gender and grooms him/her for continuing the family name and shouldering the responsibilities that come bundled with it. A day that is synonymous with the unique aroma of the turmeric leaves as steaming 'Enduri pithas' are doled out in every house. A day that heralds the 'badi paka' season. Marked with a very unique 'badi bahaghara' ritual in my mother's family. Perhaps a modification of the ancient practice of offering the first harvest of 'biri' or black lentil to the Gods. Or a reminder of the important position held by these sun-dried lentils when it comes to Odia marriage rituals. Some communities also follow a similar ritual called the 'Badi Anukula'. It sanctions the use of freshly harvested black lentils which are crucial to churning the best quality 'badi'. I distinctly recollect the rows of pristine white 'badi' drying in the sun in the backyards or on rooftops on this day. A single row would be markedly different from the others. Adorned with a dot of vermillion, a sprig of 'doob grass', and a small flower or petal tucked into each badi. An image that has stayed with me for all these years along with the sight and smells of the steaming 'Haladi patra pitha' even though the rituals of 'badi anakula' or 'badi bahaghara' are not  a part of the traditions followed in my in-law's place. 

When I look back at those days, I can very well relate to the wisdom that calls for the usage of turmeric and Gajapimpali leaves for steaming food. To ensure maximum benefit, the 'Énduri pitha' is made and consumed for 7 days in a row and then on the eighth day, the vessel used for steaming', an earthen pot called 'Athara', is discarded. The simple act of reiteration to used to drive home the message. Studies have established that these leaves have anti-inflammatory and carminative properties. Ayurveda has always prescribed them as a remedy for  'Vata-dosha'. 
The below images shows the different types of 'Enduri pitha' prepared using the different kinds of leaves. 
( From left to right : Gajapimpali patra enduri, Haladi patra enduri, Saal patra enduri')

























Similarly, 'badi anakula' also signals the onset of winter and clear skies which create ideal conditions for making badi. In fact, the entire stash of badi is made during these months and stored for usage throughout the year. But as a child, I associated the day with new dresses, 'enduri pitha and mutton', and 'badi bahaghara'.




















'Jau Kandhei' / 'Lakha kandhei' or Lacquer Dolls, a traditional art form still practiced by the Shankhari and Jaura communities of  Balasore, Odisha. These are made from terracotta and then painted with lacquer using a few basic colors. While one can find different kinds of  'jau kandhei' like birds, animals, fruits, vegetables, and even kitchen utensils,  the most popular ones are the bride and groom dolls which are always sold or gifted in a pair. They are symbolic of marital bliss and as such gifted to newly married couples. While the origin of this art form is not documented, some researchers have pointed to the similarity with the Dhangra-Dhangiri clay dolls worshipped by the primitive tribes of Mayurbhanj. This seems a possibility given the physical proximity of the regions. But then, the striking similarity in the forms and the colors used in painting the dolls hint at an association with Jagannatha culture. Whatever be it's origin, this is one art form of Odisha that needs to be revived and put on the world map. 

Friday, November 19, 2021

Dahi Chenna : The lesser known Chenna from Odisha






















Dahi Chenna, the cheese procured from the spent curds after butter has been extracted. Pinkish brown-hued, chewy, and with a slight note of sourness, it acquires a unique character by virtue of fermentation and the hours of slow cooking done on a wooden fire. A uniqueness that is apparent in the very first bite. It's the complexity of its flavor that sets it apart from the more easily available 'Dudh Chenna' or cheese obtained simply by splitting the milk. 

Interestingly, this was one ingredient I discovered by taste rather than sight when I unsuspectingly bit into a 'Chenna Manda' at a relative's place. Perplexed by the 'chenna' stufffing that did not have that underlying 'milky-ness' to it, I had asked the host about the ingredients of the stuffing and learned something new. A lot of years have passed since then. I did not get another opportunity to taste it until last week when a relative came from my in-laws native bearing gifts of homemade ghee and the most delicious 'Dahi Chenna'. 

Most of it was turned into 'Chenna Kakara' as expected and the last bit of it was mixed with parched rice for breakfast. Induced into a state of nostalgia, the kind of which is mostly acquired by good food, the MIL reminisced her childhood days when 'Dahi chenna' was easily available and almost a breakfast staple for most Brahmin families. Made possible by the easy availability of good quality milk and free firewood procured by backyards trees and coconut and palm groves, it seemed the best way to make use of the huge quantities of spent curds produced at home. But with firewood becoming more and more inaccessible and adulterated milk on the rise, it is becoming increasingly rare for people to make it at home. Seasoned 'Gudiyas' or the 'Gaudas' who still have access to good milk and firewood share that apart from these two, the 'Dahi Chenna' gets its complex flavors from the earthen pots and some of the liquid that has been retained to add to the next lot. 






















But the USP of the 'Dahi Chenna' is not just taste or texture for that matter. Being lighter on the stomach as most of the fat has been extracted during the churning and with a greater shelf life, it was more coveted among the two types of cheese prevalent in Coastal Odisha. Its exalted status is reflected in its usage in the various 'pitha's made during various occasions like Manabasa Gurubar, Bada Osa and Prathamastami. This custom is now seriously threatened by the unavailability of the Dahi Chenna and most people have taken to using regular Chenna instead.







Thursday, November 11, 2021

The Winter Vegetables of Odisha : A Recce of the local Haat







I walked into the crowds. The hiatus had been longer than anticipated. The feeling of venturing into alien territory gripped me at first. I stumbled blindly for the first few meters before I started picking out the shapes. Just as the eyes get accustomed to the darkness when one enters a dark room. I found myself seeking out familiar faces in the crowd. Perhaps it mirrored my own need to be recognized. By the old lady who stocked my favorite greens and tried to offload her entire stash on me. Or the man who was sometimes accompanied by his son who happened to be a little older than my own. I failed to spot either of them. Did she find someone as gullible as me ? How is the boy coping up with the online classes ? Questions flocked to me. The answers were nowhere in sight.


Getting back to the local 'haat' after all these weeks felt nothing to like a homecoming. The crowd was thinner than usual. The shops fewer in number. The only thing that had not changed was the freshness of the vegetables. Mostly sourced from the local farmers, the 'haat' had the most glorious winter produce on display. Greens dominated the scene with generous pools of white. Reds, pinks and purples stood out rather conspicuously . The browns were sadly stashed behind or occupied the fringes reflecting our general apathy of these vegetables that are lumped under the category of 'alu', 'kanda' or 'saru'. These fall into the unenviable category of the 'character actors' who prop up the screenplay but remain unsung. Odia cuisine makes ample use of these 'underground' vegetables but at the same time it is not entirely difficult to conjure up an Odia meal without them. Hence they remain unseen. Just like they have been for the most of their lives. 

There is no Odia equivalent of 'Arbi ki subzi' or 'Yam Kulambu'. Neither a 'shakkarkandi halwa' for that matter. For these vegetables add body, texture and even sweetness to numerous dishes like Ghanta, Santula, Dalma and Besara but lose either own identity in the ensuing medley. A rare Khatta or Bhaja is just not enough to redeem their stature. But isn't this unassuming characteristic the very hallmark of Odia cuisine ? This coming together of elements to assume a collective identity that is more than the sum of its individual components is what sets us apart. Don't you agree ?

Friday, August 18, 2017

Madaranga Sagaw Raee

The woman stood still near the broken down gate. The sun was shining directly over head and everybody seemed to have vanished indoors to escape the yellow orb's fury.While she visited the compound everyday to draw fresh water from the well along with her friends, the desolate house scared her into inaction for a few moments. The ghost stories that floated around the neighborhood were of least concern to her. Her fear was real. God knows what kind of anti-social might have taken refuge in the rundown place.

She lingered on for a few more minutes looking out for any visible signs of recent occupation. And then pushed open the gate with a calculated force. The rusted hinges let out a loud creak. Walking determinedly up to the well, she put down the 'gara' or metal pot on the ground with a thud and then proceeded to lower the bucket into the well with another loud splash. It was a deliberate move to let everyone know that she meant business.

Once her pot was filled with the sweet tasting water, she stood straight and looked around once before getting down on her haunches. The small bushes of 'Madaranga sagaw' or Alternanthera sessilis that had sprung around the moist soil had been tempting her for many days. Maybe the previous owners of the house had planted a few stalks a long time back. Now it was all overgrown and quite a treat for the summer months given that the vegetable supplies has dried up. But picking those stalks in the morning hours would mean sharing it with the other women. While she had no qualms about doing so, it was a practical decision given that the number of mouths to be fed were more.

Gathering a modest sized bunch, she tied it up into a bundle using a piece of twine that was lying around. Her friends would surely notice the dwindled vegetation and start a discussion the next day. Maybe they might even overcome their superstitions and start plucking the nutritious greens on a regular basis. It might as well be the first and also the very last time she got some of it on her hands. Whatever maybe the case, she decided to keep it a secret and cook a delicious meal of 'Madaranga Sagaw Raee' with Pakhala for her family.

Read on for the recipe -

















Preparation Time - 30 mins

Ingredients -
  • 200 gms of Madaranga Sagaw / Alternanthera sessilis 
  • 1 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
  • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
  • 1 medium sized potato
  • 1 medium sized tomato ( country ones preferred )
  • 1 small onion
  • 5 garlic cloves
  • 2 dry red chilis
  • 2 tsp mustard oil
  • salt to taste
  • a handful of badi / vadi 


Preparation - Keeping aside a pinch of the mustard seeds, grind the rest along with the cumin seeds, 1 dry red chili and 3 garlic cloves into a smooth paste.

Pluck the leaves from the stems and wash them 2-3 times in sufficient water. Drain the excess water.
Finely chop into small bits.

The potato, tomato and onion also need to be chopped into small pieces.

Crush the remaining garlic cloves.

Cooking - Heat a wok and throw in the badis. Fry them without oil for a few minutes before drizzling with a few drops of the mustard oil. Fry for another minute or two. Remove and keep aside.

Add the remaining mustard oil to the same wok.

Add the broken red chili and a pinch mustard seeds .

Once it starts to splutter, add the 2 crushed garlic cloves. After a minute, toss in the chopped onions as well.

As the onions turn pink, add the chopped potato and tomato.

Cook till the tomato is mushy.

Add the chopped greens and cook for 4-5 mins on a medium flame.

Dilute the mustard paste and add to the wok. ( Straining this liquid before adding to the wok is a good idea as it removes the black residue which can lend a bitter note to the curry )

Add salt and cover with a lid till cooked.

Add the crushed badis just before removing the wok from the flame.

Serve with Pakhala or even hot rice !


















Tip - To get the most out of your 'raee' dish, season with some raw mustard oil and crushed garlic just before taking it off the flame. 

Sunday, July 9, 2017

Horse Gram and Spring onion Soup ( Comforting Monsoon Broths Collaboration )

Monsoon and romance. Well, these two have always seemed synonymous to me. Thankfully I am not the only one prone to their magical madness. The bewitching monsoons have fueled the imagination of many a creative souls resulting in those rain drenched Bollywood sequences that are symbolic of the heavens melting into the embrace of a scorched earth.

From watching those dark clouds traverse the canopy of the blue skies to catching those first rain drops with my hands, I find myself soaking in the beauty of this spellbinding season. And even if it scares the shit out of me at times, I am still fascinated by it. My childhood memories are littered with instances where I hid behind a thick curtain to take a peek at those almost mysterious lightning displays while closing the ears tightly every time the thunder rolled. In fact there are a dozen of those monsoon memories clearly imprinted in my memory.

Once the storm blew over, I would rush out to find the whole garden/terrace littered with Gulmohar blossoms from a huge tree that dominated the entrance of our locality. The lawns resembled something like a piece of modern art with splotches of red and yellow on a verdant canvas. And I would compete with my brother in gathering the most number of intact blossoms. Even if it meant venturing out in the muck and all. Replete with slithering earthworms and creepy crawlies. But somehow in those days, even though we were young, we had the values of 'peaceful co-existence' inculcated in us. So one was never bothered about these creatures.

While growing up has taken the fun out of the rains, it has certainly fired up the romantic in me. A dozen hopeless poems and passages in my short stories bear testimony to this. But speaking practically and sticking to realistic goals, every time it rains, I just want to cozy up with a book, a cup of warm liquid and a blanket. Good enough for most people, don't you agree ?

Now that I have already mentioned it, a warm broth aka soup seems to have become the mainstay of my monsoon diet. From the typical indigenous fare like Kanji, rasam and shorba, to chinese brews and healthy vegetable based nourishment, everything gets a chance to be on the menu. On a rotation basis of course. And the last entrant on this bandwagon is the 'Horsegram soup', a hearty decoction inspired by the 'Kolotho dali' which is an important past of Odia cuisine.

Check out the recipe -

[ and more !! Collab Post Alert *** ]























Preparation Time - 25 mins

Ingredients -
  • 1 cup roasted and split Horsegram
  • 2-3 spring onion bulbs
  • 4-5 tsp chopped spring onions (including the greens)
  • 2 medium sized tomato
  • 10-12 peppercorns
  • 4-5 garlic cloves
  • 1-2 dry red chilis
  • 1 tsp oil
  • pinch of turmeric
  • salt to taste
  • additional spring onion bulb for garnishing

Preparation - Wash and soak the horsegram for 2-3 hours. 

Cooking - Cook it for 5-6 whistles in a pressure cooker along with 2-3 spring onion bulbs, tomatoes, salt, turmeric, peppercorn and 3 cups water. 

Once the steam escapes, open the lid and use a hand blender to puree the cooked lentils and tomatoes.

Heat the oil in a wok. Add the crushed garlic and whole dry red chilis. Once it is fragrant, remove the chilis.

Add the chopped spring onions and saute for 2-3 mins. Pour everything over the pureed ingredients.

Put the pressure cooker back on the flame and let it simmer for 5-6 mins (without lid) . Adjust the consistency by adding hot water and check for the salt.

Pour into serving bowls. Serve.




Dont forget to dunk in some sliced spring onions for extra flavour.
























Check this striking soup recipe by my amazing friend Parinaaz  who is a part of the ongoing Comforting Monsoon Broths Collaboration !! Don't forget to visit her blog - A Dollop Of That for some mouthwatering Parsi fare :).






















Roasted Red Bell Pepper Soup



Tuesday, April 11, 2017

Sankha Saru Tarkari ( Arbi cooked with tomatoes and lentil dumplings )

Taro (Arbi) or Saru is perhaps one of the most widely consumed vegetables in Odisha and finds it's way into a variety of dishes like dalma, santula, besara and ghanta. Though used in a smaller proportion as compared to other vegetables, it lends a thick consistency and sweetness to the curry. Upon being thoroughly cooked, the vegetable turns sticky and this kind of binds the lentils and vegetables together. This is why one should not add too much of this vegetable to any curry as one does not want to end up with a sticky gloopy mess.

But apart from the culinary aspect, this is one vegetable that boasts of multiple health benefits. It is easy on the digestive system, controls sugar levels, boosts the immune system and even speeds up the blood circulation. No wonder this vegetable is widely used during the fasting period of Navratri and even the  'no onion no garlic' days which are an integral part of the Hindu culture.

In Odisha, the taro plant along with the plantain, used to be an integral part of every garden/backyard in earlier days. The tubers used to be harvested only after the plants died off naturally (else they tend to be itchy) and then stored for use throughout the year. My parents still grow taro in our garden though not in very large quantity. It is enough to last us a few months. The 'Sankha saru' is a relatively larger variety of Taro and is so called as the shape resembles a conch. Apart from being used in the regular Odia dishes, it is often dipped in a rice batter and pan fried. But at times, when the vegetable supply dries up, as it usually does during the summer months, it is made into a light curry with some tomatoes, badi (lentil dumplings) and a light mustard gravy.

Read on for the recipe -

















Preparation Time - 15 mins

Ingredients -

  • 200 gm Taro cubes
  • 2 medium sized country tomatoes
  • 1/2 of a small onion
  • 1 dry red chili
  • 2 pinch mustard seeds
  • 2 pinch turmeric powder
  • a handful of badi ( dried lentil dumplings ) 
  • 3 tsp vegetable oil
  • salt to taste

For the mustard paste -

  • 2 tsp mustard seeds
  • 2 dry red chilis
  • 2-3 garlic flakes 

Preparation - Grind the mustard seeds, garlic and red chili into a fine paste.

Cooking - Heat 2 tsp oil in a wok. Add the badi and fry on a low flame till they start turning red. Remove and keep aside.

Add the remaining oil to the same wok. Once hot, add the mustard seeds and broken red chili. Once the seeds start spluttering, add the coarsely chopped onion.

Once onion turns translucent, add the chopped tomatoes. Sprinkle a little salt over them and cover with a lid for 2 mins to soften them.

Remove the lids and smash the tomatoes. Cook for another 2-3 mins .

Dissolve the mustard paste in 1 cup water and pour slowly into the wok . This ensures that the sediments of the mustard paste do not go into the curry and turn it bitter.

Now add the taro cubes, slat and turmeric. Cover with a lid till just cooked. Do not overcook as they will turn sticky.

Crush the badi lightly and add to the curry jsut before removing it from the flame.

Taro tends to absorb water and so does the lentil dumplings. So do not worry if there is any excess liquid remaining.

Serve at room temperature with steamed rice or even pakhala.



Thursday, December 29, 2016

Black Rice And Pumpkin Soup ( My experiments with Ambila )

 IMP - Black Rice And Pumpkin Soup is an original recipe created by the blogger and has been published for the first time on oriyarasoi.com.


Ambila. Sweet, sour and with a hint of chilli, this traditional soup from Odisha is a hot favorite during the winter months. It has quite a few variations in terms of the vegetables used and the choice of souring ingredient. While availability of certain ingredients is definitely an important factor, the major influence lies in the preference of the local populace. Though dried mango is the most popular souring agent used, tamarind or even sour curd is preferred by certain people. The sweetness also varies as per personal preferences. Strangely enough, the absence of any sweetening agent is enough to label it as 'Kanji', another close cousin of the ambila.

While both these traditional recipes are quite popular in my home, I picked the 'Ambila' for a makeover because of the 'sweet' component. The strong earthy flavor of black rice pairs rather well with coconut and jaggery, both of which are integral to the 'Ambila'. The deep hue (anthocyanins) of the black rice adds a whole new appeal to this traditional recipe.

Read on for the recipe -

















Preparation Time - 35 mins ( plus 30 mins soaking )

Ingredients - 

  • 1/2 cup sliced pumpkin
  • 3-4 tbsp black rice ( coarsely ground )
  • 4 tsp jaggery ( or as per taste )
  • 1/3 cup freshly grated coconut
  • 1-2 dried mangoes pieces
  • 1/2 tsp pancha phutana 
  • 1-2 dry red chilis
  • 1 1/2 tsp canola/rice bran oil
  • a  pinch of turmeric
  • salt to taste


Preparation - Soak the coarsely powdered rice for 30 mins in 1/2 cup. 

Soak the dried mango pieces separately in 1/3 cup water

Cooking - Heat 1/2 tsp oil in a deep vessel. Add the pumpkin slices along with a pinch of turmeric. Fry for 3-4 mins.

Add about 4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Add the soaked rice and let it boil for 15 mins.

Stir in the jaggery and grated coconut. Boil for 5 mins.

Finally add the dried mango along with the water used for soaking. Adjust the salt. Keep boiling for 5 mins.

In another small pan, heat 1 tsp oil. Add the broken red chili and pancha phutana. Once it starts spluttering, pour it over the ambila.

Serve hot.
























Thursday, October 13, 2016

Desi Kukuda Jholo ( Country Style Chicken Curry )

Ok. I am done with the ranting and raving. Accompanied with a generous amount of head smacking, banging my head on the walls and tearing out my hair, it has left me looking like something that has been dragged out of the dumpster by a bunch of notorious canines. After all, it is India and every stone you throw is bound to finds it mark on an obnoxious canine or an even more obnoxious chauvinist.

If I ever had any inkling of doubt about the total chauvinist leanings of our society , those have been effectively squashed by the Supreme court and Delhi High Court verdicts. 'Hindu son can divorce wife if she tries to separate him from aged parents' sermonizes the first one, only to be backed by an equally regressive and undoubtedly fawning subordinate which rules 'Denying sex to husband for long period ground for divorce'. If it had been a fair world, all these words like 'son', 'wife', 'husband', etc would have been ditched in favour of the all encompassing 'spouse', thus giving equal rights to both parties in a marriage.

Now some may cry hoarse that there are many women-centric laws and evil women use those to harass hapless in-laws. Some of them even get helpless men arrested on charges of rape, harassment, stalking and so on. But I have rarely come across any cases of 'groom burning' nor have I seen lascivious groups of women stalking/teasing the poor guys in bus stands, metro stations or even as they avail public transport. So, I do not care much about laws that protect the endangered male species. And with that I rest my case.

Coming back to business as usual ( do I even have a choice ? ), today's recipe is a simple but amazing Country style chicken curry from Odisha. Since country chicken has a texture that mimics mutton and also take quite longer to cook as compared to farmed 'broiler' chicken, it's preparation is similar to that of a mutton curry. It is pan cooked for a long time till the chicken gives up some juice and takes on a shiny texture. We called the process 'kasha' in Odia and that is usually the key to the final taste of the curry. Too less 'kasha' means that one can make out the rawness of the ingredients while too much 'kasha' gives a blackish color to the curry and changes the aroma for the worse.

Read on for the recipe -


















Preparation Time - 1 hour 20 mins

Ingredients -


250 gm country chicken (desi kukuda)
1 medium sized potato
1 large onion + 1/2 of a medium onion ( the chopped onion should be equal in volume to the mutton pieces )
1 1/2 tbsp coarse garlic paste
1 1/2 tbsp coarsely chopped ginger
3-4 dry red chillis
1 big cardamom
1 bay leaf
2 2" cinnamon sticks
1/4 tsp turmeric
salt to taste
6 tsp mustard oil + 1 tsp for the marination

Preparation - Wash the chicken pieces and drain away all the water. Add salt, turmeric and 1 tsp mustard oil. Mix well and keep aside.

Cut the onions into medium sized pieces. Crush lightly using a mortar and pestle. Keep aside.

Also crush the ginger and garlic in the same way but just a little more fine.

Cut the potatoes into big chunks.

Cooking - Heat the oil in a pressure cooker.

Add the potatoes and fry till golden brown. Remove and keep aside.

Add the red chillis followed by the cardamom, bay leaf and cinnamon sticks to the hot oil. Fry till they turn fragrant.

Add the onions, ginger and garlic. Fry them on low flame till they turn quite red in color. (This is a sign that the onions have started turning sweet due to the caramelization process)

Next add the chicken pieces. Fry them till they stop oozing water. You do not have to stir continuously. Keep the lid on the cooker without completely closing it. Stir once every few minutes. This process takes a long time so keep patience ( grab a snack/drink something if all that heavenly smell is making you hungry ).

Once you see that the chicken pieces start leaving oil ( a sure sign that the water had dried up ) and take on a shiny coat, add 1 1/2 - 2 cups of boiling water along with the fried potato pieces. Adjust salt. Close the lid and cook for 1-2 whistles. Remove from flame.

Allow steam to escape before opening lid. Check if the chicken is done. Else add another half cup water and cook for another 1 whistle or two.

Serve hot with rice/rotis.

Note - If you do not want to use pressure cooker, use a thick bottomed copper vessel for best results.




Thursday, April 28, 2016

Chaula Bara ( A Rustic style Vada from Odisha )

Have you ever wondered if there is a key to your memory ? If yes, is it just one ?  Or do such multiple keys exist which have the power to selectively unlock small sections of one's memories ? To me, the human mind sometimes seems like a beehive with cell upon cell crammed together. But while they may seem identical, each one is unique and holds something specific. And most importantly, there exists a singular key for each cell.

But at other times, digging into the human mind reminds me of looking/ exploring for water /oil under a rocky terrain. Just like the water or oil which is trapped between two layers of solid rock and can be harvested only if we reach a specific depth, neither less not more, the human mind seems to have layer and layers of memories superimposed one upon the other. Reaching for a specific memory thus requires knowledge of a very specific nature which can enable one to penetrate to the particular layer which holds the information.

The reason that I have been ranting about the human memory is because I sometimes fail to recall certain things even after people remind me about them. And then, all of a sudden, things jump at me when I am least expecting it . This recipe for example evaded me till I got to sample some prepared by an Odia neighbor of mine. This old lady is one of the few who still prefer to make 'bara' in this manner while most of us prefer to follow the biri 'bara' recipe.

Read on for the recipe -


















Preparation Time - 30 mins

Ingredients -


  • 1 cup split biri / black lentil ( i use the skin variety )
  • 1 cup arwa rice ( jeera rice or sona masuri will do )
  • 1 tsp whole cumin seeds
  • 2-3 green chili ( finely chopped )
  • 1 small onion ( finely chopped )
  • 2 pinch baking powder
  • salt to taste
  • oil for deep frying


Preparation -  Wash and soak the biri and rice for 7-8 hours ( overnight ).

Drain excess water and grind into a thick smooth batter .

Keep aside for ferment for a good 4-5 hours .

Mix in the cumin seeds, green chili and onion along with the salt and baking powder. Let it sit for 15 mins.

Cooking - Heat sufficient oil for deep frying.

Drop small balls of the batter into the oil. Cook till brown on one side and then flip to cook on other side as well.

Remove and drain on paper towels.

Serve hot with ketchup and green chilis.

















Note - One can also use crushed ginger, curry leaves and cilantro to enhance the flavor. The smaller the size, the more crunchy it will be, so take care to keep them small.

Thursday, May 7, 2015

Sabitri Sajaa ( Savitri Vrat Series )

Today's post is a sneak peek at what should be there in the 'Sabitri Sajaa' or the thali/basket that forms a part of the offerings on Sabitri Brata. As one can easily make out, most of these are the essentials for most married women .



















So,lets decode them one by one ( starting from the center and then going in a clockwise fashion )-

1. Sindoor/Vermilon -  It is the single most sign that a married woman sports on her forehead or in the middle parting of her hair . Hence, I have placed it in the center.

2. Alta - This is the red liquid that you see on the hands and feet of most Indian classical dancers. Married odia women apply it on their feet on every auspicious occasion.

3. Bangles - Glass bangles to be precise. It is compulsory for married women to sport a few of these on their wrists.

4. Mirror - A symbol of vanity, all women love looking into it (we all love to be presentable, don't we). This is also a must have in the thali.

5. Comb - Another vanity item that needs no introduction. Mostly a small comb is put as a symolic gesture rather than a full sized one. You can buy a full sized one if you are doing the Brata for the first time.

6. Kajal - To heighten the beauty of those mesmerizing dark Indian eyes !! Yes, no one wear this black stuff better than the Indians. What you see here is a small one that is mainly used for pooja purpose but you can also substitute if with a Kohl stick if you want.

7. Lali Sankha - These opaque red bangles are a must for all married Odia ladies. Usually , one needs to buy two sets ( or 4 pieces ) of these for the brata. Two have to be tied to the Tulsi plant (Chaunra) and the other two are supposed to be worn after performing the pooja.

8. Brata (or red thread) - Odia women tie it around the upper arm (right hand) after performing the pooja. (Not in picture )


Ofcourse one can also include bindis, liquid sindoor and any new jewelry pieces along with the above mentioned items in the thali. The new saree which is supposed to be worn after the pooja is also offered for worship.

[ To be continued ......]




Thursday, November 13, 2014

A visit to Maa Cuttack Chandi

When I visited Cuttack recently, a visit to the Cuttack Chandi temple was on my must-do list. Cuttack Chandi or the living Goddess as referred to by the locals, is the presiding deity of the town. From where we had put up (Near to Biju Patnaik Chowk), it took us hardly 10 mins to reach the place by an auto. While it can be very crowded during the Dusshera and Kali Pujas, there were few people in the temple that day.

Image - courtesy Wiki





A small structure, the temple is quite inconspicuous by itself. At first glance, one would mistake it for just another temple like I did. Only when the auto driver took a U-turn and asked us to get down before the entrance, I realized that we had arrived at our destination. Like most temples, it had a little pond /tank to wash ones feet and a set of taps of clean ones' hand and mouth. Upon entering the temple, we found the usual shops selling earthen lamps, lali sankha (red bangles), chunni and the prasad items. Some pooja books were also available. One must be careful in asking the price (especially of the bundled items) while buying from such shops. The shopkeepers will usually mention the prices of 2-3 items and skip the rest. Once you return the basket after doing the pooja, they quote a higher amount thus taking you by surprise. Seasoned devotees/visitors do not fall for such traps but outsiders may sometimes be taken for a ride.


















After lighting the lamps at the big lamp stand, we entered the temple and offered worship to the Goddess. While the temple is of recent origin, the actual deity is rumored to be an ancient one that belonged to the household of the Gajapati King. Legend has it that it was buried under earth to protect it from the plundering Muslim invaders. A purohit (priest) who happened to take an uneasy nap at the same spot was visited by the Goddess herself and the idol was reclaimed at her will. It is said that the piece of land yielded no less than forty bullock cart loads full of Red sindoor before the idol emerged. The temple has been built on the same land and the family (present generations) of the late priest Sri Hansa Panda is in charge of the daily rituals of the temple.


















The beautiful idol of Maa rests on a silver throne and is adorned with silver jewelry. She is depicted having four hands, one holding a paasha (noose), the other holding an ankusha, while the other two hands convey the abhaya (fearless) and the vara (boon) mudras respectively. Adorned with the kapala (human head) mala made up of silver and lots of fresh flower garlands, the idol is very enchanting. It surrounds one with a divine feeling and one is left spell-bound.

The various avatars of Shakti


















There are a few other idols/small temples situated within the premises. After offering our worship to all the Gods and Goddesses, we headed back home.



Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Maccha Mahura

Mahura. Ghanta. Chencheda. Fish cooked with a medley of vegetables but known by different names by people from various parts of Odisha. Phew...it can get quite confusing at times. While Ghanta is usually vegetarian with loads of sprouts and fresh coconut ( Ex - Ghanta made on Dwitibahana Osa ), Chencheda is usually made by combining some kind of leafy vegetable with the fish ( Ex- Poi (malabar spinach) Chencheda or Bandha kobi Chencheda ). Even for Mahura, it can be either Niramish (no onion-no garlic, ex - Mahura besara prasad from Puri temple) or amish ( Chingudi mahura or maccha mahura ). Hence, there is no wrong or right categorization but yes the spices are different.

Traditionally, only the head and tail of a fish like Rohu/Bhakura is used in this recipe but one can also make it with the other parts. IMO, given the demands of a fast moving world, one needs to adapt rather than end up in the league of dinosaurs. And that requirement will dictate the future of most traditional recipes. So fret not.

Read on for the recipe -



















Preparation Time - 30 mins

Ingredients -

2 pieces of Bhakura/Rohu fish ( I used a tail and a fillet )
1/2 cup chopped eggplant
1/2 cup chopped pumpkin
1/2 cup cauliflower florets
1 small potato
1/2 of a green banana
1 medium sized tomato
1 small onion
4-5 garlic cloves
1 inch ginger
1/2 tsp coriander seeds
1/2 tsp fennel
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
1-2 dry red chilli
1 large bay leaf
2-3 cloves
8-10 peppercorns
1 inch cinnamon stick
1 green cardamom
1/4 tsp turmeric
oil (as per requirement)
salt to taste


Preparation - Marinate the fish with salt and a pinch of turmeric.

Grind the onion, garlic and ginger into a coarse paste. Chop the tomato into small pieces.


Cooking - All the vegetables (except tomato) should be chopped into similar sized cubes. Clean and transfer them to a cooker with 1/4 cup water. Add a pinch of turmeric and salt. Cook on high flame for 2 whistles.

Set aside for allowing steam to escape. Drain excess water and keep aside.

Dry roast the coriander, cumin, chili, bay leaf, peppercorn, cinnamon, cloves and cardamom till fragrant. Remove and allow to cool down. Grind into a fine powder.

Heat 2-3 tsp oil in wok. Add the fish and fry for 6-7 minutes. Remove and keep aside.
In the same wok, add some more oil. Add the onion-garlic-ginger paste and fry till raw smell goes away.

Add the fried fish to the wok. Slightly crush it and fry for 3-4 minutes.

Add the chopped tomatoes and sprinkle a little salt. Allow to soften a bit. Add the boiled vegetables at this stage. Turn up the flame and fry for 3 minutes.

Finally add half of the powdered masala along with some water for cooking the vegetables. Cover with a lid and simmer on low flame for 8-10 mins.

Once done, add the remaining masala and remove from the flame.

Serve hot with white rice or rotis.
























Note - Grinding the onions along with the ginger and garlic makes the curry rich. If you want to keep it light, chop onions in medium sizes pieces and fry to a golden before adding the ginger garlic paste. Proceed as above.

One can even skip the onions if one wishes to as it is the 'mahura' spices that bring this dish together.

Tuesday, July 9, 2013

Biri Poda Pitha ( Sweetened Rice cake from Odisha )

Ratha jatra or the Car festival is one of the most important and eagerly awaited festivals in the Odiya calendar. It marks the annual trip made by Lord Jagannath to his mausi's abode. It is being celebrated on 10th of July this year.

Among the famous offerings being made to the Lord during his visit the one that stands out most is the 'Poda pitha'. This slowly baked cake made by using firewood and an earthern hearth is an intrinsic part of many odiya folklores.

Not to be confused with the 'Raja poda pitha', this one  has it own unique flavour. While the 'poda' prepared during Raja has 'chaula chuna' or rice flour as its main ingredient, Lord Jagannath's favorite makes use of 'biri chaula pithau' or black lentil and rice batter. Enriched with many aromatic ingredients like desi ghee, crushed ginger, crushed peppercorns, cardamom powder, jaggery, freshly grated coconut and coconut slices, this 'desi' cake can easily give the imported variants a run for their money.

I have given a slight twist to this traditional recipe by substituting the freshly grated coconut with a roasted and slightly caramelized version. Also, adding a tiny bit of baking powder helps with the leavening ( as fermentation takes longer in the cool climate of Bangalore ).



















Here's the recipe :

Ingredients:


  • 1 cup skinless black lentil ( chopa chada biri )
  • 2 cups rice  ( arua chaula )
  • 3-4 tbsp sugar/Jaggery ( adjust as per requirement )
  • a handful of dry fruits ( raisins and chopped cashews )
  • 1/2 cup chenna ( ricotta cheese ) 'Optional'
  • 1/2 cup grated coconut
  • 1/2 cup thin coconut slices
  • 3 tbsp ghee
  • 1/3 cardamom powder
  • 1 tsp coarsely ground peppercorn
  • 1 1/2 inch ginger ( finely crushed )
  • 1/2 tsp baking powder
  • salt to taste


Preparation: Soak the rice and lentil overnight. Wash and grind into a fine paste the next morning. Allow to ferment for 10-20 hours depending on the climate.

Heat 1 tbsp ghee in a frying pan. Add the grated coconut and roast on a low flame till it starts turning brown. Add 2 tsp sugar and cook till the sugar melts and coats the coconut evenly giving it a beautiful brown hue. Allow this mixture to cool down.


















Mix the salt, remaining sugar/jaggery , dry fruits, cardamom powder, pepper, ginger, ghee, coconut slices and also the caramelized coconut into the batter. Finally add the baking powder and give it a good whisk. Let it stand for 5 mins before popping into the pre-heated oven.

Cooking: Preheat an oven to 180 degrees centigrade.

Take a good quality ovenproof dish which is about 2 inches deep. Grease the container with a good quantity of ghee.

Pour the batter into the baking dish.

Put in the oven and cook at 180 degrees for 30 mins. Then lower the temperature to about 150 degrees and bake for another 30 mins. Insert a toothpick to check if it comes out clean.







Remove from oven and let it cool down completely . Cut into pieces and serve with ghuguni and kheeri.

Have a great time enjoying the Poda pitha !!

Monday, July 4, 2011

Mudhi Ghanta ( Fish Head cooked with Lentil and select Vegetables )

Much before chicken became the meat of choice (though convenience is more appropriate word), fish was a regular feature in most Odia housholds. Except for the Sundays which were reserved for mutton, non-vegetarian preparations consisted of a variety of fish recipes. While fish is mostly cooked on it's own, the fish head is often prepared with lentils and/or select vegetables. Maccha Ghanta, Maccha Mahura and Mudhi Ghanta are example of such dishes.

Mudhi Ghanta used to a regular at weddings in the coastal districts of Odisha much like the Potolo Rasa, Aau/Ambada Khatta, Nadia Raee and Chenna Tarkari.

Read on for the recipe -
















Cooking Time Required : 35 mins

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup Channa dal, 
  • 1 large tomato 
  • 1 medium potato (cut into cubes)
  • 1/2 cup pumpkin cubes 
  • 2-3 potolo/pointed gourd ( peel and cut each into 3 pieces )
  • 1 fried fish head 
  • 1 fried fish tail (optional)
  • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
  • 1/3 tsp cumin seeds
  • salt to taste
  • 5-6 tsp mustard oil ( can use any vegetable oil )

For the masala paste -

  • 1 medium onion
  • 1 inch ginger
  • 7-8 garlic cloves
  • 1 inch cinnamon stick
  • 2 green cardamom,
  • 2-3 cloves
  • 2 nos bay leaf, 
  • 2-3 dry red chilli 

Preparation: Wash and soak the channa dal for 2-3 hours.

Grind the onion, ginger and garlic along with the spices (except bay leaf) into a smooth paste.

Cooking: Cook the soaked channa dal with a little water, salt and turmeric in a pressure cooker for 1-2 whistles. Keep aside till steam escapes.

Heat 2 tsp oil in the wok. Add the potato, pumpkin and pointed gourd. Sprinkle some salt. Fry for 4-5 mins.

Transfer the fried vegetables into the pressure cooker. Cook for 1 whistle on a high flame along with dal. Keep aside.

Add another teaspoon of oil to the same wok. Add the fish and crush it with a spatula. Fry on medium high till it turns reddish. Remove and keep aside.

Heat remaining oil in the wok. Add the cumin seeds and bay leaf.

Allow seeds to crackle and then add a little turmeric ( for color ). Take care not to burn it.

Add the masala paste. Cook the masala for 5-6 mins till raw smell goes away.

Add the chopped tomato and cook for another 5 mins for it to soften. Add the boiled channa dal and veggies. Mix well and cook for 3 mins.

Add 1/2-1 cup of water and bring to a boil. Add more salt if required. Simmer for 5-6 mins or till you get the desired consistency.

Finally add the fried and crushed fish pieces . Mix well and remove from the flame.

Serve hot with dal-rice/rotis.

































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